Jeju island, South Korea

 

Tales of Jeju Island

The Volcanic Jewel of Korea

A Land Born of Fire and Time

Jeju Island, a place of striking contrasts, rises from the sea like a relic of Earth’s fiery past. This volcanic jewel, off South Korea’s southern coast, is where mythology and geology merge. Hallasan, the towering volcano at Jeju’s heart, stands as guardian and witness to an island shaped by eruptions and softened by time. But Jeju is more than a geological marvel—it is a cultural enigma, with layers of grandeur, struggle, and resilience.

Echoes of the Past: Jeju’s Forgotten Kingdoms

Jeju’s earliest recorded history traces back to the Tamna Kingdom (탄라국), an independent maritime power that thrived on trade and diplomacy. For centuries, Tamna’s rulers balanced autonomy and submission to larger Korean dynasties—Silla, Goryeo, and later, Joseon. Its people, skilled seafarers, facilitated trade between Japan, China, and Korea, making Jeju a key hub in East Asian commerce. However, its independence faded, culminating in full integration into the Goryeo Kingdom in 1105.

Despite political subjugation, Jeju retained a distinct identity—its dialect, customs, and governance remained unlike the mainland. Even today, Jeju’s language and folklore set it apart, echoing its once-autonomous past.

Architecture of the Island: Harmony with the Elements

Jeju’s architecture reflects its people’s resilience. Traditional chogajip houses, made from volcanic basalt with thatched roofs, were built to withstand fierce winds. These homes, sturdy yet elegant, embody the island’s survivalist spirit.

Scattered across the island, the dol hareubang (돌하르방)—Jeju’s iconic stone guardians—stand at village entrances and temple grounds. Carved from lava rock, these statues are believed to ward off evil spirits, a legacy of shamanistic traditions blending with Buddhist and Confucian influences.

A Gastronomic Affair: Food of the Island

Jeju’s cuisine is shaped by the sea. Unlike the spice-heavy dishes of mainland Korea, Jeju’s flavours are fresh, pure, and dictated by the island’s unique ecosystem. The haenyeo (해녀), or "women of the sea," have for centuries dived to harvest abalone, sea urchins, and octopus, forming the backbone of Jeju’s seafood culture.

• Jeonbokjuk (전복죽): Abalone porridge, once a dish for royalty, now a must-try for travelers.
• Black Pork BBQ (흑돼지구이): Jeju’s legendary heuk-dwaeji is grilled over hay, giving it a unique smoky flavor.
• Omegi-tteok (오메기떡): A chewy millet rice cake, often paired with sweet red bean paste.
• Hallabong (한라봉): A citrus fruit exclusive to Jeju, bursting with sweetness and tangy undertones.

Each dish tells a story—of survival, of a people bound to the sea, and of an island resisting homogenization.

Festivals of the Island: A Culture of Rituals and Revelry

Jeju’s festivals are rooted in shamanism, Buddhism, and Confucian traditions, blending spirituality with celebration.

• Jeju Fire Festival (제주 들불축제): Honoring the island’s agrarian past, this festival sees fields burned to replenish the soil, a ritual turned spectacle.
• Tamna Cultural Festival (탐라문화제): A celebration of Jeju’s lost kingdom, featuring historical reenactments and performances.
• Seongsan Sunrise Festival (성산일출제): Marking the New Year, thousands gather at Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak) to witness the first dawn.

These festivals remind visitors that Jeju’s traditions are as enduring as its volcanic cliffs.

The Wounds Beneath the Paradise: Jeju’s Political Struggles

Beneath its scenic beauty, Jeju carries deep scars. The Jeju Uprising of 1948 (제주 4.3 사건) remains one of Korea’s most painful yet often overlooked tragedies. A resistance movement against Korea’s division, the uprising was brutally crushed by government forces, leading to the deaths of an estimated 30,000 civilians—10% of the island’s population at the time. Villages burned, families were torn apart, and for decades, survivors were forced into silence.

It wasn’t until the early 2000s that the South Korean government officially acknowledged the massacre, offering apologies and reparations. Yet, the ghosts of 4.3 linger, and discussions around Jeju’s autonomy, governance, and identity remain sensitive.

The Modern Dilemma: Development vs. Preservation

Jeju faces a new struggle—not of war, but of modernity. Its rapid rise as a global tourist destination has ignited tensions between economic growth and environmental preservation.

• Overtourism: Millions of visitors flock to Jeju annually, straining its delicate ecosystems. The construction of luxury resorts and casinos threatens its volcanic landscapes and marine life.
• Foreign Real Estate Boom: Large-scale investments from Chinese developers have sparked fears of cultural erosion and economic dependency.
• Military Tensions: Jeju’s strategic location makes it central to South Korea’s defence policy. The controversial Jeju Naval Base, opposed by many locals, remains a symbol of geopolitical unease, entangled in U.S.-China-Korea power struggles.

As Jeju grapples with these conflicts, the question remains—can it retain its identity while embracing progress?

A Scholar’s Perspective: Jeju’s Place in the World

Jeju is more than a tourist paradise—it is a living narrative of resilience, environmental struggle, and political memory. Its isolation preserved its uniqueness, yet globalization pulls it towards uniformity. The scars of its past shape its political consciousness, yet rapid capitalism threatens its traditions.

For historians, Jeju is a case study of post-colonial identity formation. For travellers, it is a land of stark contrasts. For its people, it is home—a place still seeking the balance between history and the future.

As the waves crash against its volcanic shores, Jeju whispers its story—not just of beauty, but of struggle. And those who listen will find that this island, in all its complexity, is like no other.

Sources:

(text)

1.  Korea's Place in the Sun: A Modern History by Bruce Cumings

2. Voices of Jeju: Memories of the April 3rd Uprising by Hyun-hye Kang

3. Korea's Tourism Boom and the Politics of Development in Jeju by Dal Yong JIn

(pictures)

PIC-1:  Dynasty Korea

PIC-2: HistoryMaps

PIC-3: agoda.com

PIC-4: Premium Korean Online

PIC-5: Posie on the lamb

PIC-6: Army Recogntion

PIC-7: Hayes and Jarvis